Thursday, September 16, 1999

The Complete Guide to Building an AK 47

This blog will teach you how to build an AK 47, by yourself, in your garage, with a minimal amount of tools, ak parts and knowledge - LEGALLY.  Not a full auto, pull the trigger and dump an entire mag type.  (That's not legal.) But a semi-automatic version. That fires once every time you pull the trigger.

It's completely legal to build your own "legal" firearms at home. As long as you do it YOURSELF. Meaning no one else can help you physically. And you follow the rules of making ONLY legal, semi-automatic firearms. Using your own ak parts.

(The various sections of this tutorial include simple methods that might be used if you had a minimum of tools. Other methods are more sophisticated, might have been developed after some of the older simpler methods, but may require more advanced tools. At the minimum you need a drill and some BIG hammers. But preferably a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight.

For a complete step by step tutorial I would highly suggest contacting for his excellent Word and .pdf file tutorials. And (buildyourownak on youtube) for his incredible video build tutorials.)

I built the rifle in the picture above. (And several others pictured in this blog.) With a minimal amount of tools. Over the course of a few days. It was probably one of the most satisfying accomplishments of my life. How many guys can say "I built an AK47 with my bare hands."?! Not many. But probably more if they only knew how easy it was.

Builders in the Khyber Pass on the Afghanistan/Pakistan border have been building them for decades. With nothing more than hammers, files and a little ingenuity:

The AK 47 has been the most successful assault rifle of all time. It's medium to large caliber has great stopping power and it's simple design insures that it works EVERYTIME. In EVERY environment:


The following posts detail links and information regarding building your own AK 47. I hope you'll have as much fun and satisfaction as I have building my own AK 47's from parts. But please follow your own state and local laws concerning firearms. And be safe.


Wednesday, September 15, 1999

Basic Components

Underfolder Trunnions Below in order:

Top one is Romanian

Middle one is Polish

Bottom one is Yugo

Monday, September 13, 1999

Building Instructions

922r Compliance:

In order to stay within the law your AK can not have more than 10 foreign made parts in it. Here are two easy calculators that explain regulation 922r and make it easy to figure out which parts you want to replace with US ones. Alot of the typical parts replaced are parts you'd like to replace anyway. Some common ones are the trigger group which makes up alot of parts towards your 922r compliance. And the piston. But my advice is to skip the piston replacement if you can. And replace something else that can simply be dropped in. Like a muzzle break or magazine component:

Building Instructions:

There are many different ways to build the many different AK variants. But most methods are applicable across the different types. My advice is to read as much as you can about the different build techniques. So that you can choose the ones that are right for your tool and skill set. There are basically two different types of AK's - milled and stamped. Milled is a receiver that has been cut from a solid block of metal. Stamped has a receiver made from bent sheet metal. You'll probably be starting with the latter. Further, most countries standard issue military AK47's are very very similar in construction. With the exception of Hungarian. And especially Yugoslavian. (Which isn't bad. The Yugo is arguably the strongest AK made. As it starts with an RPK trunnion. And all around beefier components.)

The main difference in your build will be stamped versus milled. And standard AK vs Yugo. And whether you use rivets or screws to attach the receiver together with the rifle. 

With a stamped build you will be starting with a replacement stamped sheet metal receiver. (Or building one from scratch - also called building from a "flat".) Or you will be welding a milled receiver back together. Or starting with a new milled replacement receiver. Then you will either be attaching your receiver with rivets (the traditional way) or with screws. I prefer rivets. But you'll have to decide that on your own:

Build an AK from two different perspectives

Project guns
Building a receiver from a flat:
AK building notes

Romanian AK info

AMD-65 build

FCG removal

How to polish the FCG

How to remove furniture

How to use a trigger guard Jig

AK receiver bending

All-thread barrel install

How to make an electronic bore cleaner

Rust bluing

Hot bluing

AK-47 parts diagram

Templates for receivers and tooling/jigs

AK barrel reference dimensions

Tap/drill reference chart

How to load a 75 rd chinese drum magazine
Adjust a side mount optics clamp

AMMS pivot pin fix

How to fix Trigger slap

How to build a bullpup

The 555th receiver flat bending jig

AK-47 bolt disassembly

Arizona Response Systems  - This collection of build instructions are incredible:

Headspacing information

CIP website

SAAMI website
How to check headspace .doc
How to check headspace video
Resetting headspace with oversize barrel pins

Headspace reference guide:

Trunnion hole location trick:

Put masking tape over trunnion and mark it with side of pencil:

Center-punch holes

Remove tape

Drill very small pilot holes

Open your holes

Sunday, September 12, 1999

Youtube Building Videos

How an AK-47 Works

Buildyourownak on Youtube ( ) has the most complete collection of videos on building an AK. I highly recommend his DVD in the first section of this blog. They cover almost every aspect of an AK build. The DVD has hi res versions of each video. Here are the low res versions he's posted on Youtube:


  Barrel Removal

Bulgarian Rivets

Checking Headspace

Demilling Trigger Guard

Drilling Front Trunnion Holes

Drilling Out Old Rivets

Drilling Rear Trunnion Holes

Drilling Scope Rail

Fitting and Riveting Mag & Trigger Guard

Pressing Front Trunnion Rivets

Pressing in the Barrel

Pressing Rear Trunnion Rivets

Pressing Front Trunnion Rivets

Pressing Out The Barrel

Reinstalling The Barrel Pin

Removing Reciever Stubs

Riveting The Scope Rail

How to Bend a Receiver

Review of NDS-2 Receiver

Saturday, September 11, 1999

Dimensions & Plans

Bolt Rail Dimensions

Scope Rail Location

Using your drill press as a lathe for barrel work

Barrel Thread Sizes

Fire Control Group Retaining Wire Placement

Polish Underfolder Parts Diagram

Barrel Dimensions

Chamber .764" (19.25mm w/ .005 - .006" press fit)
Rear Sight Base .734" (18.5mm w/ .005 - .006" press fit)
Handguard Retainer .691"
Gas Block .634" (16mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Front Sight Base .594" (15mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)

Chamber .908" (23mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Rear Sight Base .694" (17.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Handguard Retainer .671"
Gas Block .594" (15mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Front Sight Base .575" (14.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)

Chamber .871" (22mm w/ .004 - .005" press fit)
Rear Sight Base .694" (17.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Handguard Retainer .671"
Gas Block .594" (15mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Front Sight Base .575" (14.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)

Chamber .867" (22mm w/ .001 - .002" press fit)
Rear Sight Base .694" (17.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Handguard Retainer .671"
Gas Block .594" (15mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Front Sight Base .575" (14.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)

Chamber .908" (23mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Rear Sight Base .694" (17.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Handguard Retainer .671"
Gas Block .594" (15mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Front Sight Base .517" (13mm w/ .004 - .005" press fit)

Chamber .908" (23mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Rear Sight Base .694" (17.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)
Handguard Retainer .671"
Combination Gas Block & Front Sight Base .575" (14.5mm w/ .003 - .004" press fit)

AKMS Underfolder Conversion

M70AB/2 Receiver template from Ding

AK-74 Side Folder Conversion Plans From Pookie

Weapons Manuals & Books


Steve's Pages


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Wednesday, September 8, 1999

Black Oxide Finish

Black Oxide solution is a two part process. One you mix the contents of a bottle of BO with about 3 gallons of distilled water. (It says do not reuse. But I mean the bucket. You can reuse black oxide as many times as you want.):

Two you cover it with a sealant. That comes in four cans:

You leave the ak parts in the solution for 5 minutes or so. Then wash with water. Then apply the sealant. Then wait for the parts to dry. I left them overnight. IT'S THAT EASY!

For Prep I went overboard (as usual) I sandblasted with alum oxide at 100 psi, wire wheeled using an air die grinder, emory cloth wet sanded, then buffing wheel on bench grinder using black and red rubbing compound. Once I started this process I never touched the ak 47 parts. I used rubber gloves or clean cloth gloves.

After that (I actually did it twice - as I f'ed up and tried to wash the kits in the dishwasher. Turned into flash rust city! That was a bad day. Stay away from the dishwasher unless the parts are already blued. Mine had been stripped from the polishing etc. And completely turned to rust in about 15 minutes.) I started with brake cleaner. Then I used Fabuloso (I think it's Purple Power in other parts of the US.) with hot water from the sink. Immediately drying the ak47 parts with a clean towel afterwards:

I then had Chief ShippingBull (my nephew that does all my shipping and helps me out. LOL!) apply a heat gun to the ak parts. You can get better black by heating the parts or the solution to 120 degrees. You can see how much I stripped the parts in this pic too:

I got these great plastic trays just the right size for a completed AK kit. From:

I made wire hangers out of wire hangers. Wink I also used one of the plastic trays (I bought seperate ones for each operation) to clean parts with brake cleaner. The sandblast media and dirt just kept falling out:

Here's another pic of how polished I started with. I was hoping the black oxide would show off the "hand polished" metal. Like a hot blu would. Make it look like an old firearm that had been carried for years:

You then carefully pour the BO solution into one of your trays (Prior to this I plugged both barrels with wood dowels to keep the BO out. Not sure it would hurt it. But just wanted to make sure.):

Then slide your parts in. And start a 5 minute timer. Although you can go as long and as many times as you like. You really have to be careful here. You need to lift the parts up off the bottom and swirl them around or the solution around them. If you let them just sit on the bottom or on a piece of wire it will not blue as dark there:

After that you take the parts out. And give them a thorough bath. I put them in my cleaning tray and soaked them with water from a hose. I then brought them back in and laid them out in the sealant tray. And smothered them with the sealant using a brush. I left the main part of the kit hanging on the hangers. You can reuse the sealant that flows to the bottom of the tray:

The first kit went off without a hitch. But the second kit ended up with bare areas on the bottom side of the kit. Like bare metal flakes where the BO was not taking. I suspect it was from some of the sealant splashing over from the other tray. Or it could have been oil that seeped out and laid on top of the BO solution:

We fixed this by rubbing each bare part with a rubber gloved hand. The solution won't hurt your hands in rubber gloves. Not sure what it would do to bare skin. But it does not seem to be that caustic. AFter rubbing the areas off. The BO started to take. It made it completely black. (This pic is just a few moments into them fully blacking over. It will scare the crap out of you. Like you messed it up. But have faith. It will all black over):

In the end we removed the kit, washed it with water, heated it up again, and redipped it.

Here are the parts finished. We missed a few tiny flecks on the second kit that had the oil(?) problems. Once cleaned it can be redipped in the BO and would cover fine I'm sure:

(EDIT - At first glance the surface came out looking very painted. Very flat and powdery. I didn't like it. And thought it would look better on an AR than an old school WWII or 60's era AK. But then I polished it LIGHTLY with 0000 steel wool and buffed it with a bare cloth polishing wheel on my air die grinder...)

Like I said above. When it first came out I wasn't to happy with the finish. But then I dried off all the sealant (the next day) and started polishing it very LIGHTLY with 0000 steel wool. Then going over that with a clean cloth polishing wheel on my air die grinder (50 psi). About a 3 inch one so I could get into all the surfaces. It took off the powdery surface that was making it look so flat and painted. And turned this nice translucent brown/grey color.

Cold blu is more on the blue/grey side. But black oxide with the more brown tinge (and I'm talking very slight differences here - I'll post comparison pics later) looks very well suited for a WWII or pre 1960's military arm. I slightly prefer the blue of cold blu. But it just depends on the wood your contrasting it against. A dark walnut brown wood would look great with this. Which is kind of what I have on the Yugo.

The killer app in black oxide (over cold blu) is that you can dip your entire kit at once. Rather than having to wipe each part of it with a small swatch of cloth. Like you do with cold blu. You also have to be careful with flat surfaces with cold blu. Like on the side of a receiver. You have to wipe it cleanly and real flat all along a flat surface. To avoid streaks. With black oxide there is none of that worry. As the entire part or rifle is dipped into the solution.

You do need to take great care that there isn't any oil residue sitting on top of the solution. It might be worth running a cheese cloth over the top to try to soak up any oil sitting on top of the solution. I did miss a couple tiny spots where oil kept the black oxide from the surface of the metal. That can be fixed while in the solution by rubbing it clean. But oil buildup on the surface is an issue to watch for.

Black oxide is a VERY nice finish. It could not have been easier or more even if you tried. The other advantage is there is no caustic chemicals to deal with. No real heat. And you can do it right in your own back yard or kitchen if you wanted to. And for $80 bucks you'll have a solution you can use over and over again. You just pour it back into the plastic bucket it comes with. And you can black oxide as many parts as you like.

I also scratch tested the ak47 parts right out of the mix. With a screw. And it wouldn't scratch with light to normal pressure. And aging with steel wool for areas you want to look worn (like on a bfpu) takes quite a bit of rubbing to even it to start thinning.

For home builders that want a good tough new finish. I recommend this highly. Easy. Cheap. Tough. Hard to mess up. You can't beat it for a new finish on ak parts without using heat or caustic chemicals.


Tuesday, September 7, 1999

ORF Milled Receiver Solutions

This was originally written for a forum that I contribute to. So there is mention of various usernames that won't make sense. But the build tutorial I think has major value for my readers. ORF or Ohio Rapid Fire is now closed for good. But if you have an ORF receiver or are just building an AK parts kit with a milled receiver this article is valuable. The ORF receivers had issues. But were cheap. And could be dealt with by using the solutions detailed below:


This details 9 separate issues and solutions encountered in building the ORF milled Fixed Stock & UF receivers. (as of 062810 - I am finished building on this receiver. Just have the finish left to do. I am only building the fixed stock version in this thread.)

So unless otherwise noted all of the issues mentioned are for the "FIXED STOCK M70 RECEIVER". (There was some confusion about which receivers have which problems.)

I have only detailed two problems with the UF receivers. But have only dealt with the Fixed Stock receiver to date. So once I move on to building the UF more problems may arise. At this point you should check your UF's independently of these issues. And for these common issues as well.

You should check your receiver for all of these issues before bluing or assembly. As they may affect your ability to do either of those.

Most all of these problems can be "remedied" with simple shop tools i.e. - hammers, hand files, dremel and/or an air die grinder etc. With the exception of a cylinder hone. But they are $15 or less at your local auto parts store. If you end up needing to remove or push your barrel out once installed I HIGHLY recommend buying the milled barrel removal tool made by Viktor Bout on theakforum. Lamont had some luck with a floppy head socket wrench. But if you plan to build more than one of these. I can't recommend that tool enough. Or greenmachine offers an even more sophisticated tool that will remove and install the yugo barrel. And probably aid in fine headspace adjustments. Available at

This is all I will say about ORF:

With the solutions discovered thus far I wish I had purchased more of these at the $175 sale price. They are a quality receiver for that price. And a steal.

Although personally I would have been disappointed had I paid the full original price of $349. For that price you expect a correct receiver. If the axis pin holes (for example) can be drilled correctly on one model receiver. They should be drilled correctly on all models. Which isn't to say that all ORF receivers have all of these issues. Some apparently don't have all of these problems. But maybe once we all see these issues and solutions in photos and print - we can all put down our hatchets. And agree that many people have experienced problems with their ORF receivers. But that there are also work arounds for these issues.

These receivers aren't perfect. You have a right to be upset if you paid the full $349 price for a complete receiver - and gotten one with these problems. But the problems can be fixed. And at $175 it's worth it to fix them. At $349 I would have wanted my money back too.

So luckily solutions have been found (mostly by others I might add). Much thanks to guys like AKblue, bigmedina and especially Lamont. And to others who generously shared their experience building these receivers.

****I am not an expert nor a gunsmith. So use these solutions at your own risk. I'm hoping they will work for me. They have been reported to work by others that have built rifles on these receivers.****


1) The ORF M70 fixed stock milled receiver has axis pins that are placed incorrectly. Approximately 1/8 to far to the front of the receiver. (This is as compared to the ORF M70 UF and ORF M64 UF milled receivers. Which do not have the same trigger/hammer placement issues. As their axis pin holes are drilled in the correct location.) The axis pins, in this incorrect location, result in the trigger not rotating fully or at all. Places the trigger further forward inside the trigger guard. And moves the safety and hammer strike out of normal placement. But (hopefully) within operational limits. The safety still strikes the rear of the trigger assembly. Making it operational. The different angle of hammer strike does not seem far enough to cause concern. You'll have to live with the trigger placement inside of the trigger guard. It will remain approximately 1/8 further forward than it should be.

Here's a pic of how far off it is. The below receiver is the incorrect receiver. The upper receiver is a correct receiver. The difference in hole placement can be seen in the lighted area in the center of the pic. Again, with the holes this far off the trigger will not even rotate on one of my ORF receivers. The only alternative to the detailed solution here. Is to weld in the holes and redrill them. That is probably a MUCH better fix than the one detailed here. But I don't weld. And I believe the resultant offset of the trigger and hammer will still operate properly.

Welding and relocating the axis pin holes would be a "cure". But cutting out the trigger hole appears to be a safe "remedy":

The trigger is basically placed so far forward. That it is pushed against the square hole in the bottom of the receiver, that it sits in. It won't move. Not enough to engage the hammer. Let alone release it. Below is a pic of a correct receiver on the right. And the incorrect one on the left. It appears from the 5 ORF AK receivers that I have - that the UF's are correct in this regard. And that the fixed stock versions have this problem:

Basically I did two things. I removed as much material from the trigger as I safely could:

Then I removed material from the front of the square trigger hole on the bottom of the receiver. Making the final hole 29.90mm long. And the measurement out to the two half circles 33.45mm long. Measuring from the back of the hole to the front. Here is a pic of my two scribe lines. I have just begun to remove material with a 1/8 bit, die grinder and hand tools. HF's diamond bit die grinder set was very helpful. (I did two receivers. One that I already blued. And one that had not been blued. Below is the non blued to show the more clearly marked scribes.):

This is the finished hole on the left. Not bad by hand. Using a die grinder and small hand files. Go slow. I drilled 1/8 holes for the half circles on one of the receivers. On the other I used only the die grinder. I stopped well before the outside lines. And used hand files from there on. Although I used the diamond bit on the die grinder for final finish on the half circles. I checked and rechecked trigger movement as I went along. Using just the trigger, disconnector, sleeve and axis pin. Once I achieved full movement of the trigger I cleaned up the edges with hand files:

Here is a pic with the trigger in. On both the "corrected" receiver on the left (ORF M70 fixed stock). And a receiver that was "correct" to begin with on the right (ORF M70 UF). You can see how much material has been taken out in front of the trigger on the corrected one on the left. And how much of a gap there is to the rear of the trigger. Both as a result of the misaligned axis pin holes. Second pic is just of the "corrected" receiver by itself.

Before and after I checked safety placement on the rear of the trigger. It remained the same obviously. Not as fully engaged as a "correct" receiver. But engaged enough to make it fully operational. It hits the trigger about two times the safety tips width. Maybe three. Probably hits within a 1/16 to an 1/8 into the trigger. Anyway the trigger will not move with the selector on safe:

I don't have pics of the hammer angle hitting the firing pin. It appears to hit it in a not obviously bad angle. But since the pin it rotates on is 1/8 further forward - it is hitting the firing pin a little sooner in it's forward arch. But should clear the bolt carrier with no problem. ***But I have not gone beyond this stage. Or checked the build for live fire or even cycling. Others have and it's worked out.***

2) Another issue reported with these receivers is feeding problems because of the height of the receiver at the selector stop/mag catch. A remedy for this has been to remove the machined out half circle in the selector stop. Or removing the selector stop altogether. Allowing the mag to seat that extra distance into the mag well. So that the rear mag catch rests on the receiver itself and not on the selector stop. How ever much you remove from the bottom of the selector stop - you have to remove from the top. In order to keep the mag catch gap the same. You can also use this to tighten up your mag catch gap. Here is an example. You can see that the stop is ground thinner and the center front section has been removed:

If your selector stop needs modifying the contact between the bolt and casing will look like this:

If your selector stop DOES NOT need modifying the contact between the bolt and casing will look like this - or better - meaning even more contact:

After some back and forth (and mistakes on my part) I was able to ascertain that my receiver would work without modifying the selector stop. Although it could have been improved (see above pic). It was good enough. So I left it alone. I may regret this later. As the only fix will be to demil the trigger guard and do it over.

3) Another issue is the ORF manufactured bullet guide itself. Apparently some were reported to not be correct on the left upper edge "ramp" that connects with the bolt and makes it rotate. My solution is to use an original bullet guide. I believe those to be correct. Until reported otherwise. I believe the same problem exists on the ORF M76 bullet guides. The rotation ramp (for lack of a correct term) needs to be moved forward IIRC.

4)On the ORF "UF receivers" I received - both M70 and M64 - the bullet guide slot that is machined into the bottom of the receiver (The well the bullet guide sits in.) is to shallow. I was able to correct this by grinding down the square part on the bottom of an original bullet guide. It lessons the amount of material on your bullet guide. But since it is held halfway by the barrel. There does appear to be enough of that square areas material to hold the bullet guide in place. Plus it is riveted in place. I took about half a mm off. But your mileage may vary:

5) I had trouble with about 1/3 of the mags I tried on this receiver (mostly Yugos) fitting to tightly or not at all at the front of the magwell. You can see from the below picture that there is a tiny amount of material left in. That could have been ground out. But I decided to grind on my $12 mags. Instead of my receiver. And it may loosen up over time. I also didn't want to loosen the mags that already fit snuggly. You can see the small double vertical line towards the front in the center if this pic:

6) I have two styles of top cover. Heavy thick milled ones that came with my milled kits. And one that is thinner and has a dimple in the front (not sure what style this is it's not common or from a stamped kit I believe). The receiver is two wide for athe heavier typical milled top cover. On the advice of Lamont. I beat the sh*t out of it with a BFH and a piece of square wood placed at an angle. It eventually slipped over the receiver. Lamont also ground on the inside back of his for an easier fit. Mine is quite tight. I may end up doing the same:

7) Lamont also shared that his recoil spring retaining pin hole was to small. Mine was as well. I had to drill it out with a .172 bit:

Cool I have not determined if my UF receivers suffer from this yet. But it was reported by falcon62:

"I've got one of the ORF underfolder Yugo receivers. So far the only problem I've come into is that the barrel pin hole is about 2mm lower than it should be. is that common?  Also if I redrill the barrel (after headspacing) I'll end up with about 1mm of meat left between the barrel & barrel pin. Is that going to be strong enough right there? Are there any better options?"

I'd like to know if anyone else ran into this issue. This may be a major deal breaker. If your going to have to weld this in. You might as well have the axis holes welded and redrilled too. An added expense if you don't weld.

9) I figured out the hard way that the barrel hole in this receiver is several thousandths to small. Apparently this was to accommodate different barrel sizes. I pressed the barrel in - side facing me. And didn't see it bending. It only made it about halfway in. Before I realized it I had bent the barrel. Some say I can fix this. I might try later. But I pulled everything off of the barrel I had bent trying to install it. And went with a new one.

(See the dings in the receiver face? That was from trying to hammer the barrel off of the receiver. Using a bucking bar and a BFH. It isn't coming out without a special tool I'll describe below.)

Prior to trying the new one. I had to open the barrel hole by about 2-3 thousandths. To achieve a 2 thousandths difference. Barrel being 2 thousandths bigger than the barrel hole in the receiver.

Lamont (man he's been a great help) told me to get a cylinder hone. You can see it below. It's basically three stones on spring arms that are used to bore out any cylindrical type space in metal. Use plenty of lube. I use the cheap dark cutting oil you find at Home Depot or Lowes in the plumbing pipe section.

Take your time and measure ALOT. It takes several minutes to get a couple thousandths out of the barrel hole. I went thru a battery on my drill at high speed. If that gives you any indication. But the last one thousandths went quick. So measure often.

And I tried repressing the barrel with a 2.5 to 3 thousandths difference. And it wouldn't go. I had to take it out to a full 2 thousandths difference. And even then it was hard at the end. Lamont has better calipers than I do. And his measurements showed a cone type shape to the barrel hole. IIRC tighter at the chamber - wider at the barrel. Which may explain the tightness in mine towards the end of the press.

One little tip I used while applying the barrel parts was the use of old drill bits. I used old bits as punches to push out fsb pins and the like. And even used sections of old bits as pins themselves. The first fsb on the first barrel just would not take an original pin. But a bit end fit tightly. I simply cut and ground them to size and tapped them in.

I got all the new barrel items on last night. And pressed the barrel. Like I said it was still tight at the end. But lined up. And I got the barrel pin installed. Started checking the headspace. But I will complete that tonight hopefully. And post up some pics of that process. I have a feeling I need to take the barrel out some. Feels like the bolt is not hitting the feed ramp soon enough.

I bought a great tool from Viktor Bout on theakforum. He made specifically for taking barrels out of milled or completed receivers. I don't know what I would have done without it. I think that is posted above. If not, I will post it below. He only has a few. I suggest getting one if your going to do several milled builds.

It works like this. This is a home made one. It's not just two pieces of metal. You have to clear out a section to clear the ejector:


I ended up having to adjust headspace. No big surprise there. I chose bit, reamer and pin incorrectly. And ended up learning a hard lesson - "measure everything, even bits, even if there is a measurement on the item your using...". The reamer was a couple thousandths bigger than it was supposed to be. So once I had completed my new barrel pin hole. The barrel pin pushed in with my thumb. Not good. I ordered new bit blank stock from Enco. In a larger size .302 IIRC. I redrilled the hole out to accomodate the larger pin. But got the pin stuck 2/3 of the way in. Getting it unstuck was not easy. And the Enco stock was to hard to drill. (Normal barrel pins can be drilled out no problem.) I hammered, beat and bent press pins. I finally left liquid wrench in it over night. And leaned the press pin on one side of the barrel pin hole. And pressed HARD to get it out. One pop at a time.

I then went back to my oversize reamer. And realized that drill bits just don't cut a uniform enough hole. The reamer smoothed it out. And the barrel pin pressed in with ease. You can also make the pins smaller using your drill press as a sort of lathe. Put it on a med speed. Place the pin in the drill. And use files and/or sand paper to thin the pin.

The below pic shows the finished assembly. I'm going to sand, polish and black oxide it later this week. Sand blasting and then bluing will give you a satin look. Sanding and polishing will give you a deep dark blue - typical of commercial rifles. I plan to leave some of the machine marks in though. And probably bfpu the black oxide. Meaning age it. I'll post final pics once that is done.

I hope this build tutorial helps those fortunate enough to purchase ORF receivers while they were still around. I still have the M70 UF and M64 UF recievers to build. But even with these issues to fix they are great receivers at $175. I still wish I had bought more of them. I have several Yugo kits. That would have been economically built had I been able to purchase more of these. Lancaster advertises some inexpensive alternatives. But have not had the best delivery issues with them. Everyone that has posted has said they did receive their receivers. It just took awhile. has probably the best receivers out there. But at $300+ they are pushing the upper edge expense wise. Rewelds seem to be the most cost effective way of building these. MAtt (turbothis) at does rewelds for around $300. You send him your kit and 922r parts and he sends you back a complete functioning and tested rifle. Receiver plates for doing it yourself can be purchased from vz58 on I think they run around $60. Tutorials can be found on the same site.

Lastly - may Todd rest in peace. If nothing else you have to take your hat off to a guy that starts any business at such a young age. And thrives. His company was massive compared to most of his competitors. And he didn't have to start a business catoring to the AK community. And no one has offered anywhere near the breadth of products that he did. Even with the "issues" I will leave you with one question. Who the hell is going to take his place?

Hopefully someone with access to alot of kits will partner with a strong manufacturer of US parts and receivers. Apex and Wiselight? (I hope.) Let's hope someone takes ORF's place. Or we will simply be left with a bunch of a dusty parts to show our grandkids.

Good luck to anyone else building on ORF receivers and their AK parts kits. Feel free to contact me about any other issues you've detailed.


Here's the finished project: